J o u r n a l
B Y A W I L D R O S E . . . .
The hottest day of the year so far for the UK meant that the only thing I could think about was getting into the water, grabbing a board and suiting up with my other half ready to hit our local surf spot. With my 7"2 out of action, having a little respray for now I grabbed my 7"6 for a couple of little licks. It was small but a sunset session is never a bad thing.
The Dua Lipa song 'One kiss is all it takes' turned into very quickly into one wave is all it takes to put a smile on my face as we sat in traffic during rush hour to get to the beach. My West winter wetsuit, doing exactly what it's designed for, kept me extremely warm in the 10°c water, but the 25°c car journey in traffic, during rush hour, let me tell you was unpleasant to say the least. Hence the one in, one out arm wetsuit style I am fashioning. Not that it made much difference.
I try to shut my eyes between the car park and actually getting in the sea because the amount of people on the sand is more than I'd like to see at my local spot and the rubbish left on the beach is appalling.
But as soon as my toes hit the water and I laydown on my board and paddle out for the first wave, we are separated from the chaos and plunged into calm. No one else is in there with us it's just me, my boy, my board and the sea.
It's been a while and learning to surf is like learning how to walk once you know you don't forget, but I sure felt rusty.
But the minute that first perfect wave came rolling up everything just clicked into place and I was on it. There was just wave, after wave, after wave. My heart racing, my muscles are aching, no sooner have you gone in to get a wave you're rushing to get back out again for the next set. So hard I've been bitten by the surf bug again. It's like an addiction. That rush, that drop, the ride is incomparable to anything else I know.
Cliche as it is, it's true what they say only a surfer knows the feeling. The wait is full of suspense, the lull is intense, the drop is the rush but it's completely out of your control and no wave is ever the same.
Be dipping my toes in Hawaii by the end of the year, so stay tuned for more surf adventures. Sign up to my newsletter to hear things first.
ROSE EADS | SURFER | DESIGNER | ILLUSTRATOR | PHOTOGRAPHER